INTRODUCTION
I started my journey into aquaria more than 30 years ago and have started and maintained both freshwater and saltwater aquariums with lots of different kinds of fish, invertebrates, plants and more! Most aquarists begin their journey into aquarium keeping by starting a freshwater aquarium. Freshwater aquariums are typically the easiest and least expensive path to get started in the hobby as there are plenty of inexpensive options for equipment, flora and livestock that are readily available in local pet supply chain stores and on-line. In this quick start guide, I'll cover some preliminary considerations, the basic equipment you will need, how to set it up, stocking your first freshwater aquarium and routine feeding and maintenance. I'll include some useful links with more detailed information, should you wish to dig deeper, as well as some links to some useful products to help get you started.
PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS
TIME COMMITMENT -
Before purchasing a new aquarium every aspiring aquarist should consider the time commitment required to maintain the aquarium ecosystem and the time to care for the animals we hope will live long and healthy lives. Freshwater aquariums are generally a little easier to maintain than saltwater aquariums as the number of water parameters to be periodically tested are fewer and there is no need for weekly mixing of seawater. Nonetheless, you can expect to be performing weekly or bi-weekly 10-20% water changes, monthly equipment maintenance and of course daily feeding of your livestock (fish and other live inhabitants). Unless you can honestly commit to these tasks required to maintain your aquarium ecosystem, please don't buy an aquarium just because your six -year old likes the "glow fish" at your local fish store (LFS).
SIZE -
Like anything else, bigger is usually better! Very often, the aquarist who buys a 5 or 10 gallon tank quickly upgrades to a larger tank so they can acquire more interesting fish as their interest in the hobby progresses. Since much of the equipment is sized (and priced) for the size of your tank, when you upgrade to a larger tank, you'll find yourself buying all new equipment too! Save yourself the hassle and expense and buy the biggest tank you can afford to properly equip and commit to maintaining. The parameters of a larger volume of water also tend to remain more stable and forgiving of novice aquarists. A 20 gallon tank (usually available as a 20 gallon "high" or a 20 gallon "long" is usually a good minimum starting place, and will allow you to stock some common community fish. That said, don' be afraid to go a little bigger up front, especially if you like those bigger fish at your LFS or in your dentist's office waiting room aquarium!
PLANTED vs. NON-PLANTED -
More and more hobbyists are choosing planted vs. non-planted aquariums. Planted tank aquariums are tanks where most if not all the plants in the aquarium are living plants, instead of plastic artificial plants. If you like horticulture or growing plants in general, then choosing a planted tank adds an entire additional dimension to your aquarium hobby. Keep in mind, like any garden, a planted tank will require good lighting, a suitable sand or soil (substrate), occasional fertilization and some routine maintenance.
LOCATION -
Choosing a place to put your new freshwater aquarium is an important consideration. You'll want to avoid placing your aquarium in direct sunlight which can increase the likelihood of unwanted algae blooms. You may also want to avoid setting it up in a bedroom if the hum or bubbling of filtration systems and other accessories may keep you awake at night. Choose a solid surface that can withstand the weight of the tank, water and more. An aquarium stand designed to support your aquarium is usually the best choice. Also, no matter how careful you are, it's likely you'll occasionally drip some water outside the aquarium so avoid putting it on a prized oriental rug or other surface that could easily be damaged.
GETTING STARTED
After you've thought through the preliminary considerations above, it's time to get started! You'll need to select and purchase your equipment, install everything, fill the tank with water, condition your water, cycle your tank (more on that later!) and finally purchase some fish!
SELECTING YOUR EQUIPMENT -
Aquarium - Most starter aquariums are made of glass and are available at your local fish store, or big box pet supply store. Choose the size and style that's right for you. Acrylic aquariums are also available, though they tend to be a little more expensive and scratch easier. Rimless aquariums, are the most expensive. They are typically made of glass and you don't see the typical black frames on the top of the aquarium keeping everything together.
Tight Fitting Lid - You'll want to get a tight fitting lid to reduce evaporation and keep your fish from jumping out. Most aquarium lids have a plastic section at the back which can be trimmed to accommodate equipment, wires and tubes that will eventually hang over the back of your tank. Here's a link to the Aqueon Versa Top I use on my aquaria which is available on Amazon.
Substrate - Substrate refers to the material you put on the inside bottom of the tank. There are many colorful and natural looking artificial substrates made of various materials including aquaria-safe plastics, glass and more. Natural substrates using sand, soils, clays and combinations thereof are best for planted aquariums so roots can get the nutrients they need directly from the substrate. One of the substrates I like the best for planted aquariums is Controsoil which is available in regular and fine grades. and various natural looking colors.
Filtration - The topic of filtration could occupy an entire website! Nonetheless, we'll cover some basics so you can understand the basics and be on your way to a healthy safe environment for your fish. There are 3 basic types of filtration - Biological, Mechanical and Chemical.
- Biological Filtration provides media for the growth of beneficial bacteria that facilitates the Nitrogen Cycle, converting harmful ammonia from fish waste and other organic decomposition to less harmful nitrates.
- Mechanical Filtration clarifies water by filtering particulates from the water. Various filtration media including sponges, screens and/or filter fiber is used to filter out particulates of various sizes.
- Chemical Filtration, most commonly using carbon, uses chemical reactions to eliminate certain elements from the water.
While under-gravel filters can provide effective mechanical and biological filtration, gravel substrate used for under-gravel filtration systems require frequent gravel vacuuming and the root of your plants (in planted aquariums) will eventually clog up the system reducing its effectiveness over time. I'm personally not a fan of over the back hanging filtration systems with bio-wheels as these tend to be much noisier choices. External canister filters, however, are an effective means of housing all three forms of filtration in one unified system. We've found Fluval External Canister Filter filtration systems to be an effective, reliable, simple and quiet means of providing all three forms of filtration. Finally, Sponge Filters provide both biological and mechanical filtration, are easy to maintain and are the most cost effective option. However, they may be less aesthetically pleasing as they reside inside the aquarium. At Blue Water Aquaria, we use Sponge Filters from Aquarium Co-Op for our quarantine, breeder and other utility tanks, and reserve the more expensive Fluval External Canister Filters for our main display tanks.
Heaters and Chillers - Keeping your aquarium water at a constant comfortable temperature for your fish is critical to their health and immune systems. With some exceptions, most community freshwater fish in the hobby enjoy a temperature of about 76 degrees. Since this is warmer than the typical household temperature, especially in the winter in cold climate areas, a heater is needed to maintain a comfortable water temperature for your fish. Conversely, if your household is typically warmer, particularly during the summer months if you don't use air conditioning, a chiller may be needed.
Lighting - There are a myriad of choices when it comes to aquarium lighting. Many aquarium starter kits come with hoods that include low-powered florescent or LED lighting. Most of these lighting systems are suitable for non-planted aquaria or aquaria with "low light" plants. For stronger plant growth and higher light demanding plants, higher quality full spectrum lighting such as is found on the Finnex Stringray 2 is preferred. For even greater control of lighting effects, the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 fully automated light even mimics day/night cycles and transitions.
Power Strips & Timers - If not using an automated lighting system, it is helpful to use timers for lighting to provide consistent photo periods from day to day. At Blue Water Aquaria we use surge-protected power strips with integrated timers on some of the outlets to simultaneously protect electrical components and automate lighting.
Freshwater Aquarium Test Kit - Every aquarist needs to develop good water testing habits to keep the environment the fish live in healthy! This means regular water testing. While there are many expensive electronic testers out there a simple manual water test kit will suffice more most aquarists with one or just a few tanks. One of the most popular is the Freshwater Test Kit from API. API also has simple Test Strips available to test multiple water parameters with one dip of a test strip.
General Supplies
- Fish Net - You'll need a fish net or two of various sizes to occasionally catch and transfer fish.
- Water Conditioner
Planted Tank Supplies
- Stainless steel scissors
- Long tweezers
- Root tabs and liquid fertilizers
STOCKING YOUR FRESHWATER AQUARIUM -
Here are some suggestions for stocking a freshwater community aquarium. We've separated the fish into Starter, Intermediate and more Advanced fish selections according to the care needed for each fish species.
Starter Fish
- Fancy Tail Guppies
- Endler's Guppies
- Tetras
- Mollies
- Corydoras
- Swordtails
Intermediate Fish Selections
- Danios
- Barbs (Barbs can be "fin nippers" so some special care is warranted.)
- Small/Dwarf Peaceful Cichlids (Cichlids can be more aggressive when spawning or protecting their young fry)
- Small Angel Fish
- Plecos (Plecos need a source of wood in their diet so your aquarium will require at least some driftwood.)
- Rainbow Sharks
- Red Tailed Sharks (Red tailed sharks can be territorial as they mature and will require at least a 36" long aquarium to give other fish room to get away.)
- Rainbows
- Dwarf Gouramis
- Ottocinclus catfish
Advanced Fish Selections - Note: Many of these fish require larger tanks and are not suitable for 20 or even 30 gallon aquariums after they mature. If starting with a smaller aquarium, plan ahead for when these fish grow to maturity.
- Sevrums
- Gouramis
- Discus
- Larger Angel Fish
FEEDING YOUR FISH -
For the health and longevity of your fish and less waste in your aquarium, choose a high quality fish food such as Omega One Super Color Flakes for your freshwater fish. Feed two to three times daily and feed only as much food as your fish will consume in about 3-4 minutes. If food accumulates at the bottom of the tank, you are feeding too much.
Disclaimer - The Amazon product links in our Quick Start Guides are part of the Amazon Associates program whereby LumaKa Pets is paid a small referral fee by Amazon for each product sold through these links. The Amazon prices you pay through these links are the same normal Amazon price as if you had gone directly to Amazon.